Akyaka, which was included in the world cittaslow list in 2010, is one of the less known paradises of Ula province. It is 30 km away from Marmaris and easily accesible. Geographically located at the northeastern edge of the Gökova Gulf, its back leans to Sakartepe Mountain, and feet extend onto Gökova Plain. It is a place where the greens meet with blues. And yes, Akyaka is not much known, but it becomes a permanent destination for the ones who come here once in their lifetimes. While the population of the town is around 2000, it doubles in the summer. Akyaka has numerous cafés and restaurants with around 250 places for accommodation.

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Azmak River (Kadın Azmağı)

Two key words for Akyaka are "Azmak River" and "Kitesurf". But of course there are more of these... Let's start with the Azmak River. This is a river ingenerated by underground springs, which well out about 2.5 kilometers east of the coast, in the land. We should not confuse Azmak River with Çay (Araplar) Stream. The Çay stream begins its journey at “Ula Pond” (at 10 km north-east of Akyaka), and is fed with the rain water coming down from the mountains. Then it forms a delta and flows into Gokova Gulf on the south side of Azmak River. 

 

60% of the Azmak River is rich in soda. It is believed that water of the river is good for diseases, and even has a rejuvenating and beautifying effect. The water temperature is between 12-14 C (53-57 F) both in summer and winter. The word “Azmak” means, the place where the rivers are flown into the sea. Long before the municipal running water system was built in Akyaka, women often came to Azmak River for washing their clothes. Therefore the river was named as “Women's Azmak (Kadın Azmağı)”. The river flows through such a marvellous geography that, wherever you look, you come eye to eye with a enchanting beauty. The water is very clear, so that the variety of colorful fish and mosses underneath looks as if they were in an aquarium. The tall reeds around the river also offer a documentary-like view, because it is a natural habitat for animals such as geese, coots, ducks, frogs, and birds etc. Those who think that we are exaggerating, may come and attend a boat tour in the Azmak River themselves, which costs only 10 ₺ per person. The tour takes less than half an hour. In the first part the tour, the boats climb against the strong flow, and in the second part they shut their engines off and glide back to where the tour had started. By the way, the cessation of the engine's noise makes you feel super relaxed. In order to better understand the flow rate of the river, it is enough to look at the oscillations of the underwater plants. They look like a woman's air hair fluttering in the wind. On the route there is a wide area in the river called "the aquarium" with a depth of 7-8 meters. Boaters inform passengers when passing through here. One of the houses on the banks of the river belongs to the great Turkish singer Barış Manço (deceased), his family still uses the house.

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Kitesurf

Akçapınar Kitesurf Beach, located in east coast of Gökova Gulf, is 3.5 km long and far away from the settlement. The beach is quite convenient for performing or learning kitesurfing, owing to the constant thermal winds that blow from the west to the beach from April to October. [reference] The kitesurf schools on the beach provide training for people of all ages. The kitesurf beach has a sandy ground, and the sea water is immaculate being fed with 3 rivers. There is a restaurant, bar, toilets, shower spots, parking lot, swimming area and sun loungers in the beach. In order to go to the Kitesurf Beach you should turn right at the big brown direction sign (see the gallery down) on the main road to Marmaris. Drive in this direction until the way forks into two, take the way on the left, then the one on the right, this way will lead you to the kitesurf schools. We give detailed directions, because navigation apps may not work properly here. By the way, the road to the beach is so terrible, that you can drive with 20 km/h speed at most. 

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Çınar Beach

This beach is about 3 km away from Akyaka (8 min by car, 45 min on foot). It is one of the ideal spots for swimming and has a pebbly ground. After a few meters from the shore, the sea deepens. There is a little icy stream passing through the beach and pouring into the sea, a natural shower spot. Çınar Beach hosts facilities such as a cafe, picnic area and sunbeds. The entrance fee is 20₺ per person.

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Architecture of Akyaka

Akyaka is famous for 'Nail Çakırhan Style' houses. Çakırhan is a journalist, poet and restorer who lived between 1910 and 2008. He is best known for uniting traditional and modern architecture, and has left a mark on Southwestern Anatolia and especially Akyaka architecture. In 1983, he won the Aga Khan Reward for Architecture, being the the first person to receive this award without studying architecture. [reference] 

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There is almost a uniform architectural structure in Akyaka. A synthesis unique to Akyaka was created by taking the old houses of Ula province, and combining them with the modern architecture. There are plenty of wood works all through the town, which comply with natural beauty. The houses and hotels are mostly two-storey and have flower gardens. 

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Activities

Let us list other activities as short as a word: sea kayak, paddle board, winsurf, sailing, cycling tour, hiking, camping, boat rental and horse riding. The boat tours visit Cleopatra Island, İncekum Beach, English Harbour and some other coves in the Gulf of Gökova. In addition to these, for ones who are interested in archeology, there are rock tombs in the town dating back to 2nd-4th centuries BC.

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Eating and Drinking

(This part is written by @dobermanniac. He is a nature lover and a freelance gourmand living in Akyaka. Follow him at instagram.)

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There are numerous alternatives when it comes to eating&drinking in Akyaka, but we can simply go around with them in three groups.

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First group is the fish restaurants by the Azmak River, such as Cennet, Halil'in Yeri, Orfoz, Olta, and Nadir Usta'nın Yeri. Almost all of these restaurants serve the same menus, and they cook fish with the same recipe. As you get into these restaurants, you can choose the fish you want to eat, and pick up hot&cold appetizers from the stall. However, you may not find crustaceans, sea urchins or escallops among the appetizers. On the other hand, you can try the classic Turkish appetizers such as haydari(thick yoghurt with garlic and dill), sea beans, shrimp, calamary, mushroom with stager, and other stuff with yogurt. They are all daily-fresh in summer.

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We recommend you to not to choose grouper as a main dish. Because in order to put the species under protection, hunting these fish is prohibited. Sea bass and red mullet are the two of local and very delicious fish. Sea bream may be another alternative as well. If you're going to try leer fish, it would be better to order it with butter (tereyağı). Lastly, porgy fish will be delicious if grilled as a whole.

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When it comes to appetizers, we recommend local sea beans and salad made with greennery which are grown inside the Azmak River. And the local calamary for sure. The avarage price of a fish meal for two people would be between 200 and 300₺ (a 35cl Turkish Raki included).

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All the fish restaurants by the Azmak River also serve mixed breakfast. But we recommend West Cafe (its former name was Olive Farm).

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Second group is the restaurants on the Bars Street. This street has evolved in the last 5 years. Previously, the only two kinds food you would have eaten on the street were fish sandwich and pancake. But now, there are a plenty of good restaurants namely İnceden Meyhane, Selanik Meyhane, Mum’s Cook, Agape Brasserie, Pizza Fellas, and more. Along the street you can find pizza restaurants, classic Turkish ginmills or even Mexican food. 'Deli Memedin Yeri' is a coctail bar of choice, and is opened in 2017. 'The Bar', being one of the classic bars of Akyaka, has renewed its interior design this year. Now it has an ambiannce of a London pub, and is preferred by many foreigner tourists. And, do not forget to meet Mr Özkan, the owner of ‘The Bar'. Finally, the 'Meyland', is known for its reasonable prices. On two days of each week they make live music, and they host some of the famous Turkish bands' concerts as well.

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Third group can be considered as the cheapest part. You can eat fish sandwich at the boats in the port of Akyaka. You can also have pancake, which is a clichee of all summer holiday sites in Turkey. The best pancake in Akyaka is served in 'Konyalı' restaurant. Although, the fish sandwich sounds good, you should keep in mind that the fish used for sandwiches are not local fish, instead they are imported and frozen fish. If you have a place to stay, you can also purchase local fish from the fisherman's cooperative and cook it at home.

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Bonus-1: There is a project going on for replacing the current river boats with the electric motored boats. The new boats will be silent and glass bottomed. Exciting, isn't it?

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Bonus-2: It may be a better idea not to choose a hotel near Azmak River to stay in. Because, the residents of the reeds are not only ducks, coots, frogs, or fish. You should pay attention to mosquitos and other small bugs as well.

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Bonus-3: You can visit this website for the details regarding Akyaka. It does not have an English version, but google translate can help.